Easter 2009 – Kinlochmoidart.

This year Easter is much later than last with Easter Saturday on April 11^th.

The last time we were at Kinlochmoidart we celebrated the 30^th consecutive visit to Scotland at Easter – though the original trips had rather fewer of us and slightly less comfortable accommodation! ….It’s now 8 trips further on……

The accommodation this year is all within the Kinlochmoidart estate and based around the main house. There are three lettable portions of the main building (the owner lives in another): Kinlochmoidart House, Leiper House and The Turret. Around the main building and close by it are four more houses: The Dairy House, The Coach House, The Colt House and Glenfield.

   

"Where a tree-lined glen opens on to Loch Moidart and in countryside steeped with tales of Bonnie Prince Charlie, these fine properties are on the Kinlochmoidart Estate, within half a mile of the coast and 4 miles from the beach at Glenuig. Kinlochmoidart House, a Scottish baronial mansion with a superb Art Movement interior, is a substantial building within which two of the properties have been sensitively formed; another is a careful conversion within an extensive service wing. All enjoy the benefits of this stunning location; the main house (part of which is still the owners’ home) stands in extensive shared gardens and the surrounding 2,000 acres of estate grant opportunities for excellent hill walking and fine (and varied) fishing — with fly fishing available by arrangement. Very comfortably furnished, well equipped and cosily heated throughout, these are perfect retreats from which to enjoy the abundance of interests and scenic splendour with which this area is blessed at all times of the year."

Designed by William Leiper in 1884, Kinlochmoidart House is one of the finest examples of his work, and retains a wealth of intricate and interesting architectural features both inside and out. It occupies the site of a house which was once the resting place of Prince Charles Edward Stuart a connection commemorated in a nearby meadow, where seven beech trees symbolise the Seven Men of Moidart, the sum total of the army which he brought from France. Its location offers much to see, do and enjoy; Loch Moidart is a beautiful inlet which a; low tide consists mainly of wide expanses of sand, and at its seaward end the ruins of 14th-century Castle Tioram on their islet provide a focal point for gloriously scenic views. Between nearby Loch Shiel and Loch Sunart, a trail leads through the Ariundle Oakwoods Nature Reserve — a haven for wildlife — and southwards, the coast is punctuated by bays of white sand excellent for fishing and shell-collecting. There is a restaurant just a mile away, and an inn at Glenuig (4 miles). Sailing facilities are within 6 miles at Acharade

 

The following link gives a bit of the history associated with the estate.

http://www.1745association.org.uk/images/Annual%20Gathering%202008/Kinlochmodart%20House.pdf

Getting there:

Glasgow (airport or train) is about 125 miles, 3½ hours drive

Inverness (airport or train) is about 111 miles, 3 hours drive

Fort William (train) is about 40 miles, 1¼ hours drive

Lochailort, the nearest station on the Mallaig line, is about 13 miles away (and probably not too good for car hire!) Across country via the mountains it’s only about 9 miles.

Mountains and other Walks

Despite being under the magic 3000', there are some excellent mountains and ridges in the area (Garbh Bheinn on a good day is reckoned to rival anywhere in Scotland for its setting and views, offers some interesting route finding and the odd scramble). There is easy access to Munros to the north and not far away are the monsters of Glen Coe and Lochaber. The coast offers many opportunities for fine walks (e.g. Ardnamurchan).

Mountains

Corbett baggers (not me of course) will be in their element here with a couple of multi-summit rounds possible. The horseshoe of Sgurr na Ba Glaise, Rois Bheinn and An Stac from Loch Ailort offers a really fine ridge walk

In the classic view of Loch Sheil and the Glen Finnan monument, Beinn Odhar Mhor is the bulky hill on the right, though the Corbett top, Beinn Odhar Bheag lies behind it. Between the Beinn Odhar and Loch Eil is Beinn Mhic Cedidh. These two should be another fine though probably strenuous walk. (it’s possible to combine these two walks into a 5-Corbett day if anyone’s feeling particularly fit!)

Further south, Pinnacle ridge on Garbh Bheinn is an “entertaining” scramble away from the normal honey-pots. This offers a scramble along a ridge crest which narrows into a classic arête,

Ben Resipol is the westernmost of the big Highland peaks; it's position between Loch Shiel and Loch Sunart, looking out over Ardnamurchan and a wide sweep of sea and islands, makes it a classic viewpoint.

There also look to be some fine lower hills bordering Glen Moidart which can be climbed directly from the house.

Low Level Walks

Smirisary village and beach from Glen Uig Is a varied walk with good coastal views and the opportunity to explore the part-restored and roadless village of Smirisary. Walk on to the beautiful white beach opposite Eilean Coille and other small islands.

Near Lochailort is the path to Peanmeanach village and beach. This is a lovely walk with great coastal views out to the Small Isles. Peanmeanach is a deserted village with a bothy and lovely white sandy beach.

Near Kentra, the singing sands is a magical place at any tide or weather. This, there-and-back walk on tracks has a delightful first half next to the water and then through forestry plantation before emerging at the white sands

See http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/fortwilliam/ardnamurchan.shtml for other short walks.

Tourism and Relaxation

Castle Tioram	The Moidart Smokehouse	Loch Sheil Cruises
Loch Nevis

The pictures above give some ideas for less strenuous outings.

Loch Sheil offers a selection of 1 hour to full day cruises from March to October from Glen Finnan – including the possibility of taking a bike to cycle back on the Loch-side track from Pollac. http://www.highlandcruises.co.uk/

“Unique guided cruises on the stunning, sheltered waters of Loch Shiel. Share the skipper's ten years' experience of spotting Golden Eagles, Red Deer, Black-throated Divers, plus a wide variety of other wildlife, while learning the history of this special, remote and unspoiled part of the Highlands of Scotland.”  

On Monday, Wednesday or Friday you can take the 10:30 ferry across Loch Nevis from Mallaig to Inverie. Return by the afternoon ferry at 2:15. http://www.knoydart-ferry.co.uk/

“Visit the Old Forge Public House on Knoydart- mainland Britain's remotest pub (Guinness Book of Records!) "Lunches and Dinners-served all day, every day using fresh local produce- langoustines, lobster, clams, fish, Knoydart hill lamb and venison; whatever makes it from the hill or loch to our kitchen. Impromptu ceilidhs, pub fiddles, cello, guitars, piano and whistles available -  or bring your own!”

On Monday or Friday the return ferry goes much deeper into the Fjord-like loch to visit Tarbet a tiny settlement on the South shore of Loch Nevis. It’s also possible to walk into Tarbet from Bracora taking between two and three hours for the walk. This is a walk that affords stunning scenery along the banks of Loch Morar- one of Europe's deepest fresh water lochs, then up over the narrow headland, from which Tarbet derives its name, to the spectacular views of Loch Nevis. Walk in and ferry out sounds like a good day.

Accommodation

Designed by the Glaswegian architect William Leiper, Kinlochmoidart was built in 1884 in exuberant baronial style for Robert Stewart, a distiller and the great grandfather of the present owner Mrs Nino Stewart. Situated in a remote part of western Inverness-shire, the house was in a parlous condition and under threat of demolition when the architects Simpson & Brown first became involved. Despite being almost entirely uninhabitable and racked by damp and decay - to the extent that every one of its fifty rooms was significantly affected by wet or dry rot - Kinlochmoidart still retained its original decoration and furnishings, severely damaged but quite remarkably unaltered.

 

In probably the largest exercise of its kind in Scotland, the dry rot was successfully tackled in an ecological manner without the use of any chemical treatment. Spread over many phases, the house was painstakingly restored with the help of grants from Historic Scotland. The work required exceptional attention to detail and included the restoration of original hand-printed, hand-embossed and hand-stencilled wallpapers, and the retention of switches and other parts of the remarkable original electrical installation.

 

 

 

I have more detail about the accommodation in the main house. The other houses are within easy walking distance of the main building. All double beds have electric blankets.

 

Kinlochmoidart House

The main house, incorporating the Grand Hall, complete with Billiard Table, has accommodation for up to 18. This is formed from some of the finest rooms of the main house. Its entrance is the main front door, leading via the main staircase to accommodation on the first, second and third floors. Comprising the middle portion of the house, it displays tiling, wallpapers, paintwork, panelling and many architectural features which have been either painstakingly restored or copied from the originals under rigorous architect supervision.

First Floor: Spacious and elegant Drawing Room with open fire. Impressive Dining Room with open fire and seating for 18. Spacious and well-equipped farmhouse-style Kitchen with dishwasher, microwave, washing machine, tumble dryer, deep freeze. Separate W.C.

Second Floor: 4 Double Bedrooms, 1 with en-suite Bathroom and 1 with splendid, panelled Victorian bath at one end. 1 Twin Bedroom. 1 Single Bedroom. 2 further Bathrooms.

Third Floor: 2 Double Bedrooms. 1 Twin Bedroom. 1 Single Bedroom. 2 Bathrooms. Large Playroom with table tennis table and colour TV.

 

Leiper House

Leiper House has accommodation for 9. Set next to Kinlochmoidart House, but completely self-contained and with its own front door, this property also boasts a wealth of period features.

Ground Floor: Large farmhouse-style Kitchen/Dining Room with Aga, microwave and dishwasher. 1 Single Bedroom. Cloakroom/W.C. Utility Room with washing machine, tumble dryer and fridge/freezer.

First Floor: Spacious Drawing Room with open fire. 1 Twin Bedroom. Bathroom/W.C.

Second Floor: 2 Double Bedrooms. 1 Twin Bedroom. Bathroom.

 

The Turret

The Turret, being the former service wing has charming accommodation for 4. Created within part of the extensive former service wing, this charming and sensitive conversion has been attractively furnished throughout. Completely self-contained, with its own front door, it offers convenient ground floor accommodation.

Ground Floor: Spacious Sitting Room with open fire. Dining Hall. Farmhouse-style Kitchen with washing machine and dishwasher. 1 Double Bedroom. 1 Twin Bedroom. Bathroom with wc.

The Dairy House

This has self-contained accommodation for 2. (with Kitchen, Living and Dining facilities + bath/shower room)

Sleeping accommodation: 1 Double Bedroom with Bathroom.

The Coach House

This has self-contained accommodation for 2. (with Kitchen, Living and Dining facilities + bath/shower room)

Sleeping accommodation: 1 Double Bedroom with Bathroom. 1 small galleried bedroom reached from the sitting room by climbing ladder-style steps

The Colt House

This has self-contained accommodation for 11 (with, Kitchen, Living and Dining facilities + bath/shower rooms)

Sleeping accommodation: 2 Double Bedrooms, one with 5’ bed. 1 single bedroom, 2 twin-bedded rooms. 1 double bedroom with en-suite shower reached by a covered walkway.

Glenfield

This has self-contained accommodation for 2. (with Kitchen, Living and Dining facilities + bath/shower room)

Sleeping accommodation: 1 Double Bedroom with 5’ bed & Bathroom.

Eating Together

I anticipate being able to eat together in the main dining room.

Cost Estimate

I estimate the cost per head for the week will be: (numbers based on analysis of the 2008 bill)

(in 2001 this was Best £155 ---Typical £195---Worst £255)

In addition to this there is the cost of transport i.e.:

          Hire cars and their fuel (~£360 per car last year)

          Fuel for private cars (~£170-£200 per car last year)

          Flights /trains etc to Scotland